DIY Floral Letters Tutorial - Make Flower Monograms & Names! (2024)

Instructions

Before You Begin

This tutorial combines my 3D Paper Letters and Numbers collection and several flower designs. The 3D designs take some time and patience as you learn their process, so please review these tips to save time later!

The download folder includes files for the letter A-Z and numbers 0-9. One set uses a scoring tool while the other does not.

Each letter or number file includes four sets of pieces. Some are very similar, since the boxes fit snugly. I suggest that you make a test version using papers that you can easily tell apart for each part. It’s also important to always know which surface of your paper is meant to be visible so that you bend and glue your tabs correctly. If possible, learn the process using papers that have different colors or textures on each side to help you tell everything apart. Writing yourself notes can help, too!

Each 3D Paper Letter is made up of:

1. The box top, made of a cutout of the letter and strips of paper with tabs that will become the 3D letter’s depth. The box top tabs are sharp. These pieces are yellow in the design file.

2. Accent pieces for the box top, including a slightly smaller cutout of the letter and a collection of rectangles you will glue to the outer sides. These pieces are green in the design file.

3. The box bottom, including a cutout of the letter that is slightly smaller than the one for the box top and tabbed side pieces that are slightly thinner than those for the top. The box bottom tabs are rounded. These pieces are orange in the design file.

4. Accent pieces for the box bottom, including the smallest cutout of the letter and a similar set of rectangles you will glue to the assembled bottom’s outer sides. These will not be visible when the box is closed. These pieces are teal in the design file.

You’ll notice that there are small shapes cut out of some letter’s tabs. We’ll use these to glue the correct pieces together in Step 3. I’ll explain the process then.

NOTE: Depending on how you want to decorate and use the final letters, you may only need the file’s top or bottom portion, or you may not need the accent layers. If so, just hide the unneeded Layers by clicking on the eye icons in the Layers panel before cutting. That way, you can save time and materials.

STEP 1: GET MY FREE 3D PAPER LETTERS AND DIY FLORAL LETTERS SVG FILES

First, download my DIY Floral Letters (Design #389) and 3D Paper Letters (Design #375) design files from my resource library.

If you are not sure how to upload an SVG cut file to Cricut Design Space, watch this helpful video training series I made. If you are on an iPad or iPhone, here is how to download and upload SVG files to the Cricut Design Space app.

STEP 2: PREPARE YOUR 3D PAPER LETTERS FOR CUTTING

Letter R

Add the first letter to your Canvas. You can zoom out to see all of the design by clicking on the minus (-) sign on the lower left. Here is what the R file looks like on my Canvas.

I recommend preparing and cutting your letters one at a time so you can keep the pieces straight. After you cut out R, clear the Canvas by selecting everything and hitting Delete. Repeat for O, S, and E using the same steps.

TIP: If you make any adjustments to the letter that you want to revisit or use again, save it as a project with a different name.

Since I'm making complete boxes and using dashed cut lines instead of Score lines, we don't have to change anything!

STEP 3: CUT THE 3D PAPER LETTERS

Remember, I suggest only cutting one letter at a time to avoid mixing up your pieces. With your first letter prepared on the Canvas, make sure the correct machine is listed and click “Make It” in the upper right corner.

If prompted, select “On Mat” then “Continue.” This will only show if you are using a Maker 3 or Explore 3 machine.

Review your mats. If you see any issues, cancel the cut and return to the Canvas to try again.

For my project, I’m going to use one color for the box sections and another for the accents, but cutting them separately will help me keep everything straight. Yours may look different depending on which elements you want to use. If everything looks good, click “Continue.”

TIP: You may be able to combine some mats to save time and material. My DIY Lollipop Holders tutorial will show you how!

On the next screen, select your material settings. I’ll select “Medium Cardstock - 80 lb” and “More” pressure.

TIP: Some machines cut differently, so if you have trouble, try the “cardstock for intricate cuts” material setting.

If you’re using the same materials throughout and the “Remember material settings” box is available, click it to save time. Make sure your Cricut Standard Fine-Point Blade in Clamp B is clean.

Place your first mat’s cardstock on a StandardGrip Machine Mat (green), and use your hands or a brayer to make sure it’s stuck well.

Load the mat into your machine and press the load/unload button when it begins blinking.

Press the flashing start button.

NOTE: Since we’re creating small, dashed cut lines, the mats might take a few minutes to cut. Be patient and use the time to plan out your decorations!

Once the cut is complete, press the blinking load/unload button. Flip the mat over on your work surface and slightly bend it to help release the cardstock.

If necessary, use a scraper tool to remove any tiny pieces left on the mat.

IMPORTANT: Keep the pieces for the top of the box (green and yellow mats) and the pieces for the bottom of the box (teal and orange mats) in separate stacks for each letter. Plastic storage bags and Post-its are also handy to keep pieces together.

Repeat for your other letters, using the same settings and methods.

STEP 4: ASSEMBLE 3D PAPER LETTERS

Assembly Notes

Remember, the box top includes pieces from the yellow and green mats. The box top pieces also have sharp corners for the tabs.

The top (front-facing or “right” side) of each piece is the side that has been cut. You will never attach pieces to each other on the side that will be visible from the exterior.

The tabs will be folded at a 90 degree angle and glued to the back or sides of the letter shape you are building. The tabs will not be visible from the outside.

Here’s a tip on curves, if you glue the wedge tabs close to each other or even overlapping, the curve will get tighter. If you leave more space between the wedges, the curve will be gentler.

Then, you’ll continue adding tabbed pieces until you complete the side of each letter. I’ve used small cutout shapes on some tabs and side pieces to help you select the next piece to add. You can see some of them in the “R” pieces here.

Assemble Letter R

Take the box pieces for the top of the box for the R and fold each piece on the dashed cut lines.

Place the top R piece face down on your work surface. It will look backwards, but that’s how we want it.

Let’s start with the counter, which is the center piece in the R’s top. This piece curves, so we’ll learn how to do that! Grab the small piece that has one tab with a circle, one with a triangle, and a blank tab in the middle.

Add glue to the blank tab and place it on the straight edge of the counter.

Now take the short piece that has the matching circle and triangle wedge tabs.

Add glue to the tab with the triangle and line it up along the top of the counter. Add a bit of glue to the original triangle tab’s front, and adhere it to the straight edge of the new counter piece.

The wedge tabs will help curve the paper around the counter’s shape. I like to add glue to two tabs at a time, stick them to the R, and work around the curve slowly. Make sure the cardstock aligns to the inside curved edge so the exterior will be nice and smooth. The next tabs can bend back and forth while you glue sections, but make sure they are glued to the back of the letter in the end.

When you get to the other end of the piece, add glue to the tab with a circle and glue it behind the end of the piece we just finished curving.

Let’s add the piece that goes at the top of the R next since it has another curve. Find the piece with a long tab with a square and a side tab with a slit.

Add glue to the tab with the square attached to the top of the R. Place the straight end of the new piece on the glue. The tabs with squares should be adjacent to each other.

Now add glue to the long tab with the square and align it to the top edge of the R.

Just like we did with the curved counter piece, add glue to two tabs at a time and align them to the edge of the R. Since the angled leg of letter R has gentle curves, your tabs won’t be as close together as they were in other areas. Slowly work around the curve. The tab with a slit will end where the letter’s curve and angled leg meet.

Find the next piece with the slit and X tabs. Glue the slit end to the last piece where the curve and angled leg meet. Glue the wedges to follow the angled leg down. Large tabs will line up with the next straight areas until the X meets at the straight leg.

Your top is complete!

Use the same steps to assemble the bottom. Remember, the R will face the correct way during assembly for the bottom.

Once the box is complete, you can add the accents if you’re using them. They’re different sizes, so I find it easiest to pick one to start with and then work around the letter.

If you had trouble with any of these techniques, that’s ok, it’s a learning process! I’ll show you a few more examples, but for additional tips, visit my 3D Paper Letters Tips page.

Assemble Letter O

Next, let’s make the letter O. Take the pieces for the top of the O box and fold each on the dashed cut lines.

Place the top O on your work space with the flatter section at the bottom. Just like the R, let’s start with the counter, which is the long piece with lots of wedges and slit symbols.

I like to have the counter’s edges meet at the bottom, but it doesn’t have a set beginning. Glue the small slit tab and a few nearby wedges to the letter, lining them up along the edge. Then, you can either glue a few tabs at a time, or add a bit of glue directly to the letter and press them in place. If you don’t mind a little extra glue on the inside of the box, the second way might be a bit easier. Just do what works best for you!

Keep gluing the counter’s wedges along the edge until you meet the beginning. Glue the adjacent tabs together to complete the counter.

Now for the outer edge. The small piece with three tabs will line up at the slightly flat section at the bottom. Place glue on its blank tab and line that up with the flat edge. A circle tab will be on the left and the triangle on the right.

Now for the O accents. The letter-shaped accents are easy to glue on, just make sure you line up the flat sections with the box.

For the outer edge, glue the accent rectangle to the bottom flat section. Then, take the two matching long accents, one of which has a tab. Use the tab to glue the two pieces together.

The spot where they join will go at the top edge of the box where it won’t be easily visible. Glue the long accent along the outer edge and it’s done! Follow the same steps for the bottom accents.

Assemble Letter S

Gather the pieces for the top of the S and fold all the creases just like the other letters.

Place the top S shape face down. The bottom of the letter is slightly flat, so make sure that’s at the bottom.

The S starts just like the O. Take the smallest tabbed piece with a triangle, circle, and a blank tab. Add glue to the blank tab and place it on the bottom straight edge of the S.

One or two tabs at a time, glue the wedges along the small curve, working upwards toward the circle. Glue that tab so the edge lines up with the letter’s corner. We’ll complete the sides at this spot in a bit.

Take the long piece with a triangle on one wedge and a square on the other end. Match the triangle tab to the first piece we attached and glue it in place. Curve the piece along the spine of the S, gluing the wedges down in your preferred method. Since the curve is so long and changes directions, I like to add glue to the letter for extra security. The curves might take a little extra time to set, so hold them in place a bit longer.

Next, add the piece with a square and a slit, matching the square tab to the last section. Gluing the new piece’s blank tab to the flat spot first is sometimes easier.

Continue gluing the wedges along the next curve along the letter’s top.

Before adding the next part with a slit, add some glue to the letter. Glue the slit tab to the last piece and keep sticking the wedges along the curves. This part gets a little tricky as the curves get tight. Bending the piece back and forth can make it more flexible.

Glue the adjacent circle tabs at the end and you’re done!

Follow the same method to complete the bottom of the S. Remember, it will be facing the right way as you add the pieces.

Finish the box by gluing the accent pieces in place. For the top, add the letter to the front, with the flat spot at the bottom. Then add the small rectangle to the short curve at the bottom left.

Glue the tabbed accent to the last long piece and set them aside to dry.

Glue the squares in their places.

Add the long accent along the last edge and you’re done!

If any spots look like they might lift up, just add a bit of glue and hold them to set.

Assemble Letter E

After you’ve made the other letters, the E is pretty easy to assemble. Especially since there are no curves! Remember, you can visit my helpful guide for extra tips

Find the side section that has a triangle and a circle symbol.

Add glue to the tab with the square. Then attach it to the underside of the straight end that is adjacent to the matching square.

Next add glue to the tab with the square and glue that to the inside top edge of the letter E.

Work your way around the rest of the E using the symbols to guide you.

If you want them, finish the top of the box by gluing the accent pieces on the sides of the E.

Repeat the same steps to assemble the box bottom of the E and its accents.

Set your letters aside while we focus on the decorations.

STEP 5: CUT AND ASSEMBLE THE FLOWERS

Here’s what my DIY Floral Letters designs look like on my Canvas. I included the Design numbers so you can easily find them in my free resource library.

The top left is Design #32, my Rolled Paper Daisy.
The top left is Design #90, my Quilled Gardenia.
The bottom flowers are from Design #303, my Paper Letter flowers. The yellow is a rolled rose, the top is a carnation, the middle is a layered rose, and the bottom is a dahlia.

This key might help you tell them apart!

Decide which flowers, leaves, or other decorations you’d like to use and make some notes. It’s a good idea to cut a few extra, just in case. I’ll show you how to Duplicate, resize, and adjust the color on a few flowers. Then, you can make your own versions!

First, I’ll click UnGroup at the top of the Layers panel so I can work with each design. Then, I’ll click the Eye icons next to the flowers I don’t need to hide them.

I definitely want to add some rolled daisies, so here’s a secret about my daisy design: you can make a two-tone flower, meaning you can make the inner part of the flower one color and the outer part another color. To do that you need to cut two copies of the flower in different colors. The original tutorial will show you how to combine them afterward!

Duplicate

To get more than one copy of the daisy you can duplicate it. First, click the flower or select all of its pieces using a bounding box. Or hold your Shift key and click each layer. Then, click “Duplicate” above the Layers Panel. Repeat as many times as you like!

Colors

If we cut the designs now, both daisies would use the same color. But we want those two-tone daisies. So select the design or specific layer you want to change. Then, click the color box at the top and select the new shade you want.

Sizing

Varying your flower sizes is easy and makes a big difference! I’ll make my daisies a bit bigger. First, select the flowers or their layers. Click and drag the resize handle until you’re happy. Or, type a new dimension in the Width field in the top menu under "Size." Either way, make sure the lock icon is closed to maintain the design proportions! Don’t make them so big they’ll take over the letter. Or too small to assemble.

TIP: For detailed instructions, see my How to Resize SVGs tutorial!

Here’s how my Canvas looks after making all the adjustments I want to my flowers. Yours may look very different, that’s ok!

Once you’re happy with the changes, click “Make It.”

If prompted, click "On Mat" and continue.

You should see several mats of different colors on the Prepare screen. They will vary depending on the number of flowers, colors, and paper size.
Click Continue.

Under “Set Base Material,” select "Medium Cardstock - 80 lb,” change Pressure to "More," and click "Remember Material Settings" if you're using the same weight of paper for each mat as I am. Again, you can try using “cardstock for intricate cuts” if your machine cuts differently than mine. Make sure your Cricut Standard Fine-Point Blade in Clamp B is clean.

STEP 6: CUT AND ASSEMBLE THE PAPER FLOWERS

Place your first mat's cardstock on a green Cricut StandardGrip Machine Mat. Use a brayer to adhere it well. Load the mat and press your machine's Go button.

When the cut is finished, unload the mat, flip it over and roll it back to release the cardstock.

Some of the pieces are small, so use the spatula to gently lift them so they don’t tear. Place the cut pieces for each flower together so you don’t get them confused!

Cut the rest of the mats using the colors on the screen for reference.

You can find assembly directions for each flower in my Paper Flower Tutorials list.

Once you've assembled enough flowers for one letter, I'll show you how to plan your layout.

STEP 7: DECORATE THE LETTERS

Time to decorate! First, let’s add the paper flowers to the R. Gather your letters, decorations, glues, and notes! Also, put some butcher paper down to protect your surface from the glue gun!

I found it helpful to lay out my flowers and leaves to see how everything looked before gluing them in place. Since I want to display the ROSE project on a shelf and be able to open up the letter box, I’ll only add my flowers to the top. If you want the letter to sit flat on a table, don’t let the decorations extend past the bottom edge.

Once I like the plan, I’ll use hot glue to secure the decorations. First, I added several leaves, then the flowers, then some extra leaves to finish!

Here’s my finished R!

Once I tested my layout on the R, I cut enough flowers and leaves for the rest of the letters and decorated them to match. I’ll show you the full result at the end!

Bonus: Flower-Filled Letter

To create a hollow letter like the S from my video, UnGroup your design and then hide everything but the bottom box layer pieces. Follow the same steps to cut and assemble the box.

Next, we’ll cut the floral foam to size. As with any sharp knife, be sure to take safety precautions and cut away from yourself. Measure 1.25" from the top and cut along the line using the floral foam knife.

Then, cut pieces of foam to fit inside the bottom of your letter. The pieces do not have to be a tight fit, just fill in the letter as best you can. Just like a puzzle!

Next, use hot glue to attach the foam pieces to the bottom of the letter. I found it easiest to work one at a time. Take a piece out, add some hot glue to its back, and gently push the foam back into the letter. It doesn’t have to be perfect!

Now to secure the flowers. Cut their stems with the wire cutters about an inch or two below the base.

Play with the layout until you’re happy, then push the stems into the foam.

If the foam is still visible, add some small flowers or glue on leaves to cover it all up.

Isn’t this a fun result?

Bonus: Silk Flower Vase
Letters with a long vertical shape can be made into vases by cutting an opening out of both layers at the top flat plane. We need to place the holes precisely so they won’t interfere with the tabs and will match up when the box is assembled. I’ll demonstrate with the E. To make the vase version, add the Score Tool version of the letter to your Canvas.

Drag the orange and yellow E layers lower on the Canvas so you have space to work at their tops. Place them next to each other, then click both while holding down Shift. Select Align Top using the top menu.

Next, drag the orange side section with the triangle and circle tabs closer to the moved letters. Type 90 into the Rotate field in the top menu.

Repeat for the matching yellow piece, but type 270 instead.

Drag the rotated orange piece so its bottom edge lines up with the matching E, overlapping the triangle tab. Click “Arrange” and “Send to Back.” Repeat with the yellow section. Your Canvas should look like mine.

Click the new orange circle in the Layers panel. Use your right arrow key to move it on top of the yellow side section. Place it in the same position as the cutout in the orange section. Get it as close as possible, but it doesn’t have to be absolutely perfect.

Repeat the same steps to detach the score lines, arrange, slice, and reattach the elements for the yellow piece. Delete all of the small circles in the Layers panel.

Here’s how it should look.

Now you can use the letter as a vase! Assemble it following the tutorial, making sure the vase openings line up.

NOTE: If you add the accents, the nearby pieces will need to be trimmed to accommodate the vase opening. I find it easiest to just cut them to size before I glue them on.

Cut the floral foam brick in half lengthwise so that the foam is 1.25” thick and then cut a piece to fit in the base of the bottom letter below the vase opening. Hot glue it in place.

Glue the foam to the bottom letter box below the opening.

Add the top letter to close the box.

Now you are ready to arrange your silk flowers by placing them through the opening and securing the stem in the floral foam. The best way to trim the silk flowers is to place the letter close to the edge of the table so that you can hold the complete flower and stem up against the letter. After you have found a length that you like, trim off the excess stem. Push the stems into the foam to secure them.

TIP: If the flowers make the letter top heavy, hot glue some washers to the inside bottom of the letter before putting on the top of the box. My original tutorial will show you more details!

STEP 8: SHOW IT OFF!

Here’s how my finished ROSE decorated letters turned out!. There are so many ways to decorate them. You could add a name in vinyl before assembling the boxes, use patterned cardstock, or add fairy lights for added drama! I’d love to see your ideas!